Puppy wont poo outside

Here's the second post of three of the WEDTM.

Continuation Part 1 WEDTM

A student called one day because although things were moving along well with her dog, the dog continued to jump up on the couch. When asked how does she address the problem, she stated hat she reaches over for one of the cans, gives it a shake and praises, and indeed, the dog gets off the couch, but gets back on again shortly thereafter.

'How do you deal with that?' I asked.

'I reach for the cans, and give it another shake, and as always, she gets right off, but gets back on it again shortly thereafter.'

'Don't you remember that the sound must come from another direction?' I asked.

'Oh yes, now I remember. Creating the sound will not be effective without alternating the source or direction. Sorry to bother you about that,' she said.

'Before you go, tell me, did you continue to do the 'Family Pack Leadership Exercise' at three other locations, and finish reading the manual?' I asked.

7B. Unacceptable Demonstrations of Dominance

Your dog needs to control totally, or to be controlled totally. In the big scheme of things, barring any unusual tendencies, outward appearances should look and feel like you are expressing proper control.

Even in the best of situations, most of us try to get as much as we think we can get, or at least as much as we feel we deserve. For the most part, your dog doesn't want to get your job, your possessions, or any thing else, except you.

All things being equal, you are the ultimate challenge. You might be considered kind of like a doggy version of Mt. Everest.

When climbing a mountain, one rule of thumb is to obtain a good purchase, before aiming for another handhold or foothold. Just about every interaction with your dog might be considered a purchase on your summit. We don't want him to fall, but there's no room at the top.

You might look at the intricacies of the relationship with your dog sort of being like a chess game. Every interaction is a strategic assault that has to be analyzed, assessed, and at some point countered.

Most canine interactions center on control issues. These power plays go on all the time, and usually take place without us even being aware, that we are the pawn in a power play.

Although most of these ploys are harmless and laughable, they do add up and scores are kept.

You don't have to play well, but like it or not, you're in the game. Being consistent means you get extra points.

Let's look at an example of how we innocently participate, and the ramifications that occur as a result.

Your dog jumps up on your couch. You look over and tell him to get off. Being a good dog he jumps right off, and resumes his appropriate spot.

Being a dog, he's going to try again. So he does. And, doing your best, you remind him that you had just asked him not to do that. But, he ignores you, and you insist. So he goes.

But (being a dog) he tries again, and you (being human) have got other things to do. Besides, he's just been groomed, and you're getting another couch soon, and you've decided to put this couch in a good spot so can have it, and you're tired, and it really doesn't matter.

So you ignore him.

This One Instance Of Inconsistency Just Fractured His Entire Concept Of The Infrastructure Of Your Home And your and His Role In It.

If you cannot make up your mind as to what is important, then he needs to make decisions so as to insure stability in his den.

7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance

How about every time your dog steps on your feet? Don't you think your dog knows where each of his feet are, and where they belong?

Or, how about his tail? Does he accidentally smack you as he goes by? Maybe he clears your coffee table as he moves past?

Certainly you can't expect your dog to understand that this long, unwieldy appendage can rearrange your knick-knacks or whatever.

'Maybe it's best to keep him out of those areas. Besides, he's like a bull in a china shop.'

We don't need to put up with these sorts of 'unavoidable' impositions on our lives or property.

You may say, 'But surely there's no way to correct such innocent impositions.'

If you believe that, then you've wasted your time reading this manual. Either start over again, or reexamine your thinking. Let's look at how you might remedy these situations. Remember, your dog is going to model your behavior and act in kind.

You set the standard for good behaviors by demonstration.

7D. How To Correct Mouthing

Every puppy goes through a mouthing stage. It's usually out grown by the end of teething. That means he needs to chew something to cut new teeth.

Provide appropriate items to be chewed. Everything else is not to be touched. Establish appropriate mouth behavior right from first contact. There's no excuse for being abused by your dogs teeth until he's finished teething.

*Some trainers teach 'bite inhibition.' That's almost the right idea.

First, mouthing is a bonding activity, so we don't want to discourage it antagonistically. Appropriate mouthing activity is up to you to determine. Some of us don't like dog's mouths on us at all. Other's don't mind and even enjoy it.

I always play with my dog's mouths, and I don't mind gentle mouthing. Whatever you attitude, just realize that others are going to be mouthed or not in the same manner as you accept.

There's no such thing as being too young to learn any behavior, within the physical limits of his body.

His brain is ready to be programmed to learn everything he will ever need to know by the age of 18 days old. Training your dog is not much different than creating a filing system.

Just as you address each page that appears on your screen, each behavior your dog performs should be dealt with before moving on to something else. Of course, if you are not prepared to cope with a behavior because of, perhaps time restrictions, make note of that behavior and set and appointed time to re create the situation and address it totally.

The first instance your dog puts his mouth on you inappropriately is to be regarded as an issue. Each time you permit any inappropriate behavior to continue without being addressed, you are setting the precedent for more of the same behavior.

TECHNIQUE:

Subtle. Just be subtle. Whenever you have a situation that needs immediate response, be very careful to not let your dog know you are either upset or going to correct him.

Casual. Just as casual as you would be as though you were explaining to your best friend how to find a tool in your garage. If your friend couldn't find something, you'd just tell him where to look and expect him to try again. And, if he returned empty handed, you'd probably suggest a better way to find the item.

Matter of factly. Just as matter of factly as you would if your friend were to return without the desired item once again. You'd calmly and matter of factly get together and show him how to get it.

No big deal.

When your dog first opens his mouth toward you, or any inappropriate matter, just create a sound and praise for five to fifteen seconds. If he refrains from that behavior, continue to praise. If he continues with the misbehavior, repeat the sound distraction from another direction followed by prolonged, non physical praise.

If he continues, use the command ' 'Out!,' good boy, nice dog...' as you gently remove his teeth from the object, immediately releasing his mouth and praising all at the same time.

Once again, it is necessary to allow the behavior to resume. As he thinks once again to open his mouth toward an inappropriate item, repeat the above procedure.

Understand that this process will require four properly performed repetitions. Observe carefully for the momentary hesitation on his third attempt, and be careful to praise that moment and continue praising for up to fifteen seconds or until the mouthing stops or resumes.

And don't forget, once you've successfully inhibited the behavior on one such item, you have at least three more occasions for which this behavior must be addressed to permanently delete it from his repertoire of misbehavior.

Bear in mind, this technique will need to be repeated in four different places, and perhaps with four different items such as people, as well as any item into which he may choose to sink his little teeth.

In other words, if he's chewing on your left hand, addressing this behavior for four consecutive occasions will prevent him chewing on only your left hand, and only in that one area.

To successfully break this behavior, allow the behavior to resume on the other hand. Next, he'll probably look forward to chewing on your ankle, and then he'll try the other ankle.

Sure, it sounds like a lot of work, and a young puppy may indeed forget a previous lesson, especially if he is in the process of cutting new teeth.

Address each instance with patience and consistency.

Soon you'll see him think of the undesirable behavior, and look right at you expecting the praise for having restrained himself.

Remember, any time you show annoyance, you are actually re-enforcing the undesirable behavior.

At some point in your dog's early life, it was likely that his mom had the duty to correct him for something like chewing on her, or for taking her food.

Perhaps you'd think mom dogs would share all their food with their puppies. That may be true most of the time, just as most mom dogs won't get thoroughly upset when their babies chew on her.

But at some point, mom needs to protect herself from her puppies; and furthermore, nature dictates appropriate rules of behavior that she is compelled to enforce.

Mom dogs will bat at their pups sideways with their mouths, while making a guttural sound much like the word out. Kind of like an umpire might be heard to say. This, if your pup had ever been corrected by his mom, it will have a profound effect on him, much like Pavlov's bell.

In many instances this

HOWEDY Joe,

Here's the third installment of the WEDTM:

Here's MOORE:

ALL behavior problems are CAUSED BY MISHANDLING.

PART II

1. Obedience

We'll be approaching our obedience training program as a piecemeal quilt puzzle; that is to say, that any one point has got to fit within the entire context, and as you develop skills, you may 'mix and match' commands to suit your needs or situation at that moment.

But we do have a procedure that is very much like the kind of steps you would follow as though you were starting your car or computer system.

These steps are like your keys to your car or password to your files. It's unlikely that your dog, when trained, will listen to anyone that does not approach the 'control panel' to his mind, without the 'keys' imbedded in this series of commands.

He'll understand that anyone asking business of him is not approved, without 'them keys.'

Practice on a daily basis should not exceed four minutes to accomplish the exercises. Practice needs to be performed at least every second day. With problem dogs, this is critical.

If you are using this training to suffice your dog's emotional needs, whether it be anxiety from separation, aggression, or stress from any source, the benefits of this exercise will wear off in three days, at least until some time down the road.

Also, dogs do tend to forget a lesson if it has not been re-enforced for several days. After the initial training period, practice may be limited to once a week.

When your dog becomes fully trained and his behavior is not an issue or goal for improvement, a brief exercise should be formally done once a week, later once a month.

We are going to give your pet 100% of your undivided positive attention, in an intense, four- minute exercise, which will have the benefit of exercising the dominant and submissive nature of your dog's personality.

These 'natures of your dog's personality' are easily accessed through the positions and postures in relationship to yourself, as you and your dog perform your obedience routines.

Each position will elicit particular sorts of body language from your dog (and vice versa, so act natural).

If you pay close attention you can determine how well or not your dog is relating to you.

Each exercise or command in the following text will articulate what must be paid close attention, and how to make this knowledge work for you and your dog.

We have special routines to break stress and tension, as well as methods to express dominance and elicit and enforce strict, exacting discipline. You will develop a feel for these as you progress through this system. The Method GUARANTEES total non physical control, but you've got to give up forced control entirely or you'll be challenging the dog and you'll learn the hard way...'I told you so.'

Any time you are in doubt about what your next move should be, just relax, take your time to review in your mind the exercise you are performing, and then execute the correct move.

Everything has a particular progression.

Admittedly, this is a complicated system. HOWEver, there is no need to worry about mastering the technique and psychology involved right away.

It will become very clear as you begin to wo rkonit. Just as we will expect your dog to learn something new with practice, you too will develop a sense for what we are doing, but only with practice.

You'll develop a feel for what we're doing. The pieces fit together like a jigsaw puzzle, and, like a jigsaw puzzle, you start by dumping the whole thing out in front of you and then try to put it in some sort of order.

Think of our method like that puzzle. Keep in mind also that things change here, according to what has been mastered.

2. Ask Your Dog To Work

We'll start with a preliminary command to set the tone for our lesson. Ask your dog if he would like to go to work.

Do so in an upbeat manner, with a questioning tone, as you lean or step backward just a little bit, praising all the while. (For more details on this, see the 'Hot and Cold' exercise, in Part I of the W.E.D.T.M. Manual.)

We don't care if he wants to 'go to work' or not. He's going to, but we would do much better if he were looking forward to enjoying it. This does not mean we're going to play, because just as soon as you finish this phrase 'Do you want to go to work? Good boy,' you're going to follow through with his next command to come to order.

2A. Back To Work

'Back to work,' is his next command, it's rather like the command 'attention' in the military. It functions as a tool we can utilize to command his attention under emergency conditions as well as for daily requests to come to order...

'Back to work' is to be followed in the same breath, without pausing or hesitating, with the forthcoming commands, while at the same time giving the hand signals and foot signals.

It's going to seem much like rubbing your head and patting your stomach at the same time.

There are several events that are going to take place one after the other, quickly in succession.

Your hand signal and foot signal will coincide with the voice commands. It's crucial that signals and voice commands all coincide, as your dog will be learning all of these at once.

2B. Stay

The 'stay' command is very complicated. There are two hand signals and a foot signal as well as, of course, your voice command. It changes depending on whether you are at the side or 'heel' position, or at a distance in front of him, or whether you are leaving his side with him remaining behind, or if you are returning toward him.

Don't worry about anything other than the hand signal from the side at this point.

Leaving your dog on the stay command is covered later. It's simple, but get used to the basics first.

Stay from the side is a sweeping motion with your left hand coming forward, high from above your elbow, fingers together, as if to touch the tip of your middle finger to the top of your dogs nose, being careful to keep your hand from breaking into your dogs vision directly over his head. We don't need to be close, just in the line of peripheral vision at about 15 degrees his snout. Give it high and forward of your body.

Follow through by bringing your hand back up and sweeping it around toward your chest, placing your left wrist at your dog's right shoulder, as you place your palm on his breast bone, as you pat him once or twice, and continue into the 'sit straight' (or 'stand straight' or 'down straight' command, described below.

What I'm trying to show is the stay signal comes in high in front and is brief.The hand then recedes high in an arch towards the handler before coming into the dog's chest parallel to his right shoulder.

The idea being that we don't want to lean over the dog to set his chest, neck, and head. It's a defensive position as some dogs may snap, that's why we're calming them in the forthcoming moves.

2C. Sit From The Side

Sit from the side involves just the hand and voice signals. The left palm comes up, until your elbow is bent ninety degrees. In due course, all you'll need to do is cup your palm. But for now, let's make it easy for your dog to notice.

Sounds pretty easy, so let's throw in some body language.

Before your dog has completed any command in these series, the next command in that series will be issued. We will do this slowly, so that your dog can think out what you are asking yet moving into the next phase before the prior has been completed.

Not too slowly, but not too fast.

You're going to be leading and directing his attention, rather than his body. His body will follow his attention and thoughts.

When you are ready to begin the 'return to heel command,' get a visual fix on a landmark, so as to be sure to orient yourselves correctly after your dog has completed sitting. At the beginning, we'll not worry too much about this orientation, or for that matter, any orientation, but it will quickly become extremely important to be precise.

Your hand signal for 'return to heel' is with your left index finger, pointing to the ground just behind your left side, as you look down and back, toward where your finger is pointing.

Leaning your weight on your right foot, so as to facilitate the movement of your left foot signal, just about one half step backward, not too far so as to lose balance, but enough to get your dog inspired to move. This is an action command, and the motion you use will help start your dog's movement.

At the same time your left foot moves, your hand signal and eyes will be pointing and moving in sync with your foot, as your upper body twists, just kind of a quarter turn left twist of your upper body as your foot moves, and back to forward.

'Back to work, heel, good boy, nice dog, sit, stay, good dog.' That's your voice command to get him to the return to heel position.

When this series has finished, and while you are still saying 'good dog,' you'll need to pat him, just once or twice on his chest, as you give him his next command to 'sit straight,' and adjust his front square at your side, by lifting his weight by his breast bone, and move his front just a little, as you help (actually cheat), by adjusting yourself at the same time to be square at the heel position.

Next, run your hand from his breast bone up under his throat, to his chin, at which point you'll repeat your stay signal, as you run your hand down one side of his body from the left shoulder down along his ribs. Then the right side, then, to one front foot, then the next. You'll see later.

2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel

The heel position means your dog's shoulders must be parallel to your knees. Return to heel is the means by which he arrives there.

Both commands are action words and require movement on your part to teach your dog what it means. The voice command for both tasks is the same.

The movement of your left foot and the direction you point your index finger and direct your eyes